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La Crème de la Crème: Thomas Boullault, king of recreation | Gilles Pudlowski’s weblog

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Thomas Boullault in searching gear together with his crew © MR

Inconceivable to flee it: he seems like, in fact, the late Bernard Loiseau, whose enthusiasm he shares, his vigorous and powerful “talking”, his love of excellent issues, his want to persuade and to share. Like him, he’s a hunter. He isn’t solognot for nothing. Loopy lover of recreation, furred, feathered, Thomas Boullault cooks it, at l’Arôme, his starred desk of Saint-Philippe du Roule, in all its types, in dodine, in ballotine, in pie, roast, within the oven or in light cooking. He presides over the world championship of the hare à la royale which takes place yearly in October, firstly of the searching season, throughout the gastronomic days of Romorantin. We recall for the anecdote that the stated hare might be supplied Antonin Carême fashion in tournedos, with foie gras and truffle, extra in fact, the blood and offal of the animal, or in line with the model of Senator Couteaux, enacted in 1898 , but additionally as introduced again into style by Joël Robuchon, in filament, crushed garlic, purple wine and with a drizzle of vinegar to make it extra digestible.

Thomas Bouillault with Julien Bissonnet’s grouses © MR

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Lover of all recreation all through the season, autumn and winter, Thomas Boullault cooks, at dwelling, Scottish grouse, this wild capercaillie offered by Julien Bissonnet from Coq Saint-Honoré, which he simmers in a pie and which requires virtually per week of preparation: together with his first base consisting of grouse legs cooked and flambéed in whiskey, at low temperature with celery, carrots and porcini mushrooms, dried figs, garlic, parsley… We make the meeting with grouse, port, cognac, juniper berries, plus a pleasant slice of pan-fried foie gras. Lastly, the three-step mince stuffing with veal, pork loin plus a gratin stuffing (pork fats in purple wine, diminished cognac, and many others.). Phew!

Grouse, fig and porcini mushroom pie © MR

Nevertheless it’s not simply recreation at Thomas, which additionally sources lamb from the South-West, matured beef tenderloin, Label Rouge poultry, all the time with Coq Saint-Honoré…. ” We’ve an unbelievable closeness with Julien, he involves see us each week and presents the merchandise of the second. Newest instance, these excellent racks of lambWe see collectively and we choose the product and the producer earlier than imagining and launching the recipe. We take virtually every little thing from him, from the principle piece to the items for the juices and sauces. » Examples: sweetbreads, breasts for juices, beef tenderloin….

Grouse, fig and porcini mushroom pie © Maurice Rougemont

Add the greens from “Vergers Saint-Eustache” (“ all of the greens and quite a lot of herbs, we respect their flexibility and their reactivity explains Thomas) and the mushrooms, porcini mushrooms and artichokes “Aux Champignons des Bois” (“ the merchandise are all the time impeccable “, he notes). For spices of every kind, it does enterprise with “Spice” previously “Sélectissime”. But in addition, outdoors Rungis, at Richard Gantzer, a small Alsatian producer who produces saffron in Wingersheim within the Kochersberg and who created loess saffron, not removed from Strasbourg – “ which is used with tomatoes and which serves many advantageous institutions (akin to David Bizet on the Peninsula…)”

Line-caught bass tartare from Saint-Gilles Croix-de-Vie © MR

With out omitting the excellent foie gras » and mushrooms (ceps, chanterelles, morels) from Comptoir Corrézien by Laurent Delacotte, “ gender knowledgeable“. The ocean additionally has its say at Thomas Boullault within the lovely dishes of l’Arôme. His most popular suppliers? The Igor Ni home in Boulogne-sur-Mer based by a former member of Armara, but additionally King Lobsters, for Norman lobsters, the primary natural lobster farm in Europe, primarily based in Normandy. The truffle, queen in season, comes virtually completely from Marine Gallois “Au nom de la Truffe”; which gives him with autumn truffles, winter truffles, or Alba truffles that may be present in one of many home’s classics: “scallops with risotto with white Alba truffles”.

Sollies fig tart, ball of white chocolate © MR

We add for its fetish merchandise, condiments and Japanese merchandise from Kioko – generalist and specialist Japanese grocery retailer, at 46 rue des Petits Champs in Paris 2nd, which provides it with yuzu juice, sobacha seeds, binchotan charcoal for the Japanese barbecue, nori angel hair, smoked rice vinegar, chosen soy sauces, wasabi sesame. His cheeses are signed by the MOF Laurent Dubois, with which he binds ” a long-standing relationship of excellence“. And the butter from the Bordier home, the place Thomas notably appreciates the variations flavored with seaweed and yuzu…

Sommelier Bixente Aguerre within the cellar © MR

A final phrase, like a tip of the hat, to the greater than 400 references to the cellar run with envy by sommelier Bixente Aguerre with its distinctive bottles, akin to Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Petrus in a number of vintages, Tertre Roteboeuf des Mitjavile in Saint-Emilion Grand Cru or Léoville-Poyferré, amongst many others… Enthusiastic and sharing, Thomas Bouillault reveals his secrets and techniques with the fervor of an fanatic who by no means ceases to please everybody.

Thomas Boullault, able to hunt, with the crew © MR

The aroma

3 rue Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Paris eighth
Such. 01 42 25 55 98
Meals: 59 (lunch), 85 (lunch, method), 109, 135, 145, 159 €
Weekly closing. : Saturday Sunday
Annual closure : 3 weeks in August
Nearest metro(s): Saint-Philippe du Roule
Web site: www.larome.fr

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