ADVERTISEMENT

Istanbul finds its place on the world map of gastronomy – 10/15/2022 at 07:47

ADVERTISEMENT


Chef Fatih Tutak within the kitchens of his restaurant “Türk”, on October 8, 2022 in Istanbul (AFP / Yasin AKGUL)

“Turk”. With such a reputation, chef Fatih Tutak shows the colour on the entrance: “At residence, we all know the place we’re immediately”.

With the 2 stars awarded to its restaurant within the first version of the Michelin Information to Istanbul, the Turkish megalopolis lastly finds its place on the world map of gastronomy.

ADVERTISEMENT

This connoisseur bible distinguished 5 eating places on Tuesday, 4 of which hung a star, and 53 “really helpful addresses” for his or her wonderful worth for cash – a bonus within the midst of the financial and inflationary disaster (+ 83%) – “illustrating the wealth of the culinary scene.

Chef Fatih Tutak (2nd d, awarded two stars in the Istanbul Michelin Guide for his restaurant

Chef Fatih Tutak (2nd d, awarded two stars within the Istanbul Michelin Information for his restaurant “Türk”, and his second, chef Ogun Koca (2nd g), on October 11, 2022 in Istanbul ( AFP / Yasin AKGUL )

For Fatih Tutak, twice topped, this is a chance to indicate that “Turkish delicacies is just not restricted to kebab”, he smiles.

“Turkish delicacies is multicultural, Turkey has welcomed many civilizations: I wish to current greater than what we all know, introduce our terroirs”.

After sixteen years rubbing shoulders with the good starred cooks of Asia like Paul Pairet in Singapore (“Ultraviolet”), or René Redzepi in Copenhagen (“Noma”), Fatih Tutak returned residence to open “Türk” in 2019.

A minimalist selection, gentle wooden furnishings and jars of pickles lined up alongside the partitions beneath the dried bouquets on the ceiling. And, above all, a panoramic view of the kitchen, which is essentially open to the eating room.

Solely native merchandise are allowed for seasonal and even “micro-season” gastronomy.

Chef Fatih Tutak (d) in the kitchens of his restaurant

Chef Fatih Tutak (d) within the kitchens of his restaurant “Türk”, on October 8, 2022 in Istanbul (AFP / Yasin AKGUL)

“We go to the market thrice per week and we select the greens ourselves. In the intervening time, we get pleasure from tubers and matsutake mushrooms, superior to truffles for my style” – he even makes it a “Smurf dessert” which makes him chuckle so much.

Produced in Adana (south), this mushroom thought-about the “white gold” of Japanese pine forests – and whose worth can attain sky excessive ranges – exudes a spicy, candy and fragrance of earth.

At Türk, the menu of ten dishes adjustments no less than each month.

– Bitter and smoky flavors –

Between the Mediterranean and Central Asia, the Aegean Sea and the plateaus of Anatolia, the Turkish geography presents a variety of merchandise which the chef needs to benefit from, even when it means placing them on his menu for 2 or three weeks.

Chef Fatih Tutak (c) in the kitchens of his restaurant

Chef Fatih Tutak (c) within the kitchens of his restaurant “Türk”, on October 8, 2022 in Istanbul (AFP / Yasin AKGUL)

This would be the destiny of the Isabella grape sorbet, “with the style of bubble gum”, specifies the grasping eye his second, Ogun Koca, chef already capped devoted to innovation.

The staff, about twenty folks – and 4 younger folks in coaching – additionally needs to have enjoyable.

“I am 37 and I am the youngest,” notes Fatih Tutak, whose “French” shirt – buttoned on the shoulder – barely conceals the tip of the lengthy knife tattooed on his left forearm.

Whereas he takes the pandemic critically, lower than a 12 months after the opening of “Türk”, the chef retains his brigade and, above all, his producers: “if we allow them to down, they might disappear”.

He takes benefit of this suspended time to revisit the standard strategies of native delicacies: drying, fermenting, canning, engaged on acid and smoky flavors – his signature, like this mini-plum in pickles, served as an appetizer.

At “Türk”, “the aim is to not dazzle, however to offer a style”, assures the critic Vedat Milor who praises on his weblog the chef’s “sense of analysis” and the seriousness of his work.

Chef Fatih Tutak in the kitchens of his restaurant

Chef Fatih Tutak within the kitchens of his restaurant “Türk”, on October 8, 2022 in Istanbul (AFP / Yasin AKGUL)

For Michelin worldwide director Gwendal Poullennec, Fatih Tutak’s delicacies combines “custom, innovation, inspiration and creativeness”: “identical to what Istanbul can supply”.

He additionally underlines the “excessive youth” of the rewarded cooks, “suppliers of the longer term”.

Final element: at “Türk”, the wines are additionally 70% Turkish and the clientele, half native. Tutak is connected to it, as a pledge of confidence.

.

Leave a Comment

ADVERTISEMENT